Twentieth Post

AUTUMN HOLIDAYS

Autumn is now well and truely here, with our first snow on the mountains. Slovenia remains as beautiful in the Autumn as in the other seasons and with clear blue skies, golden Larch and colourful Beech trees, the scenery has been stunning this Autumn….

FOCUS ON AUTUMN SCENES

Mojstrana sits nestled under awesone mountains and the view down from across the valley is stunning at the moment as in the photograph.

The mountains provide peaceful haven for walking. The locals are getting ready for winter and the carefully arranged wood piles are like spectacular sculptures in peoples gardens! If you are looking for a city buzz, then Ljubljana is a beautiful capital city with street cafes, bars and bustling markets. There are always art exhibitions and things to see in this prosperous city.

Nature is pretty at this time of year, with berries, fruit, flowers and fungi filling the land and trees.

The forests are a mixture of Larch and Beech, so the colours are amazing, especially set against the blue skies and limestone mountains.

Alternatively a trip to any of the Lakes, Bohinj, Bled or Fusini in Italy will not disappoint you, as the colours are reflected in the clear waters.

If you feel like a break before winter, visit our website and learn more about our apartment on www.mojstrana.co.uk

Next Blog focus: Ljubljana, Slovenia´s Capital City.

Nineteenth Post

There are still flowers in the meadows, but we have had the first snow up in the mountains and the mornings have that Autumnal chill now. There is still plenty of sun and blue skies and the nearby lakes of Bled and Bohinj offer great days out, at all times of year…


Lake Bled is only a 20-30 minute car journey from us, or a superb 22km cycle ride through the pretty Radovna Valley. Bled has to be one of the most photographed and well-known destinations in Slovenia. It boasts Slovenia’s only island and is very picturesque. The island can be reached by boat, or, for the more adventurous, by swimming! There are always plenty of the traditional “Pletna” boats on the lake or you can row yourself.
The island has a beautiful approach of romantic steps, sweeping you up to the idyllic church, where you can toll the haunting bell.


From the island you can look back to the craggy rock face on which the castle proudly stands.

The castle is worth a visit…for the awesome view and the pretty ramparts, museum and wine cellar. There is also a Herbal Gallery, Printing works and several medieval events all worth visiting.

Bled lies nestled between the Karawanke and Julian Alps, so it’s setting is stunning and if you go up the small chairlift, the view of the Lake and it’s setting is awesome. In the summer you can make the journey back down on the summer toboggan or, in the winter, ski down. There are plenty of lake -side cafes and bars and places to sit, swim, and admire the unique scenery. The lakeside path takes you 6km round the lake, where you will pass joggers, roller bladders and horse- drawn carts…there is something for every one here.









A little further on the valley from Lake Bled, you come to Lake Bohinj. A circular tour of which is 11.5km. Bohinj sits in a glacial basin amidst the Julian Alps. It feels more serene than Bled, and with cloud or clear skies it has a magical and mysterious atmosphere with stunning reflections of the mountains in the lake.



At one end is the cable car to Vogel, providing magnificent views and experience either for summer walking or winter skiing.

The skies around Bohinj are often filled with paragliders in the summer and tandem jumps are available for a reasonable price.










As at Bled, there are many opportunities to travel by boat on Lake Bohinj, rowing or canoeing by yourself, or on the organised touring boat which crosses the lake regularly in season. The lake has many opportunities to land with the boat or simply to walk to and set up a picnic place for the day, on gravelly beaches with plenty of safe swimming for everyone. The water is so clear in the shallows that you can watch the fish swimming around you.


As you walk round Bohinj, you pass traditional, alpine houses and as you sunbathe on the beaches you can hear the sound of the tractor cutting the hay in the pastures. These are constant reminders of the unspoilt nature of Bohinj and the surrounding area.

The bars and cafes are subtle at Bohinj so you can sit and enjoy the unspoilt view across the lake.
At the end of the lake you can climb up to the Savica waterfall…. Which is spectacular most of the year round. Bohinj can also be a start/finish point for climbing Triglav and walking in the high mountains. There is also a climbing wall and high rope activity centre on one side of the lake, both of which are built in keeping with the surroundings and blend into the natural surroundings. As with Bled, there is something for everyone at this magnificent lake.


Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog will focus on AUTUMN SCENES.

Eighteenth Post

There are many opportunities for summer fishing in Slovenia. All waters can provide prolific catches, whether on Lakes Bled or Bohinj or the emerald rivers, where you can see the fish in the crystal clear water.



LAKE FISHING
Lake Bohinj:



This is Slovenia’s largest, natural lake and Char can be caught fly fishing or by deep fishing from boats. For the casual fisherman or children, Chub and Perch can be caught from the bank. All you need is a locally bought license, which is 25€ per day.


Lake Bled:

This beautiful lake has Slovenia’s only island and is a stunning location to fish. You can fish for Pike, Perch, Zander, Lake Trout, Carp upto 20kg and Catfish. Licenses start at 13€ for one day.





RIVER FISHING:
The Sava Bohinjka:


This river is fed directly from Lake Bohinj and the water is rarely anything but crystal clear. It offers some of the best fly fishing for Trout and Grayling, upto 3-4lb, in Slovenia. Rainbow and Brown Trout can be caught to 5-6lb, or sometimes even bigger. The Rainbow Trout are generally stocked into the river for sport, but you may be lucky enough to catch some which have, unusually, bred in the river. The Sava Bohinjka is a fly fishing only river and licenses cost from 40€ per day.

Radovna River:

This is a beautifully clear river, flowing through incredible scenery. It is a small river and requires the real “J R Hartley” approach: stalking through the trees and undergrowth to try and surprise the flighty fish. It offers great fly fishing for Rainbow Trout and the aggressive Brook Trout. Licenses start from 39€ per day.






Soca River:


The Soca is an awesome mountain river flowing south towards the Adriatic Sea. The upper reaches around the Lepenica tributary, offers superb sport; fly fishing only for Rainbow, Brown and the rare Marble Trout. The largest Marble Trout was caught measuring around 4 feet long! However, a more realistic catch of all the trout, is about 2-5lb. Good sized Grayling can also be caught in the Soca, to around 2lb. Licenses start from 59€…not cheap, but worth every penny, as fishing the Soca is memorable, even if you have a “bad day”!





Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog will focus on Lakes Bled and Bohinj.

JULIAN'S LOG

Seventeenth post
Mojstrana is busy with tourists at the moment…hiking, sight seeing, cycling and enjoying the natural beauty of the Vrata Valley. Mojstrana and Dovje offer many activities and facilities on the doorstep…..you just need to know where to find them…


Sport:
In the heart of the village nestles an idyllic tennis club, with three clay courts and great clubhouse. This is a stunning place to play, surrounded by the peace and tranquillity of the mountains.




As already described in previous blogs, the cycling in the area is extensive and if you can’t manage to bring your own bike, there is local bike hire in Dovje. www.juhej.net. Here you receive a warm, friendly welcome, often with an early morning schnapps, and well maintained and equipped bikes. There is also good bike hire at Sportpoint in Kranjska Gora.




For the more adventurous, there is quad bike hire here in Mojstrana.




Mojstrana is lucky enough to have a local sport and activity company, Kofler Sport, www.kofler-sport.si This is a reputable and local family run business, offering a variety of summer and winter activities: climbing, mountaineering, water activities, skiing, sledding.

Tourism:

Dovje and Mojstrana have an active and enthusiastic Tourist Board, the local tourism office has great local information and is well stocked with leaflets, maps and gifts. www.mojstrana.com They promote local accommodation, including the lovely campsite, camp Kamne, www.campingkamne.com and, of course, our own apartment which sleeps up to six, www.mojstrana.co.uk




In Dovje is a converted Blacksmith’s which is run as a community project, selling local produce, a perfect place for local food and gifts; www.pr-katr.dovje.net






For those seeking a more cultural experience, Mojstrana has a Museum of Alpine Life, and currently, an impressive, new museum is being built.



Food and Drink:
Again, Mojstrana has a variety of bars and places to eat. There is a relaxed atmosphere at Bar Time Out, and the Hot Chocolate there in winter is to die for! The Kot Pizzeria serves great Pizzas and Pr’ Zelezn’k, the local Tourist Farm provides excellent food, drink and views! Just down the road is Villa Rosa, offering an extensive menu. There are also the Aljazev Hram and Laika bars.

Tempted?….then come and visit us!!




Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog will focus on Summer Fishing

Sixteenth Post



Wherever you go in Slovenia, you are likely to see wild-life; at the coast, in cities or villages, by and in rivers and in the meadows. Here are just some descriptions and photos we have collected on walks and trips.



There’s always a great variety of birds in the skies and woodlands. On walks in the mountains, one of the nicest sights is a group of Alpine Choughs appearing to literally play on the thermals and join you for your picnic.

We have seen Golden Eagles soaring regularly on the Slovenia/Austria border and above Lake Bohinj. In Tivoli Park in Ljubljana, you can see Hooded Crows proudly strutting their stuff!!



Over in the east of Slovenia, you know winter is over when the Storks return and nest in the man made platforms on telegraph poles, or chimneys.



In the damp conditions after the rain, it is common to see a Spotted Fire Salamander



and in ponds left after the snow in the mountains, we have been lucky enough to see the Alpine Newt.




In the summer heat, reptiles bask; lizards on the walls in Ljubljana
and a black form of Adder in scrubland in the mountains.










The summer time and flower filled meadows attract butterflies. There are many varieties of Fritillary and Blue and lots of Painted Ladies.

On Grancisce, just above Mojstrana there are always Swallowtails fluttering gracefully on the grassland at the summit in May. Some of the less common sightings have been of a Poplar or Summer Admiral, a Striped Hawkmoth and 9 Spotted Moth.




As for Mammals, in the mountains it is common to see Chamois and Ibex feeding or sleeping.










The squirrels are red but look almost black and are really quite difficult to photograph! Marmots live on grassy and rocky higher ground and their alarm call is more likely to be heard than a sighting, as they remain quite timid.
So far a bear has been elusive to us, but as the snow starts arriving in late Autumn, always look out for a Snow Cat!!
snowcat sculpted by Kevin Pegram
Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog will focus on facilities and activities in Mojstrana

Fifteenth Post


Traditionally, every village has a “village day” called “Vaski dan” which appears to be organised by local groups; fire brigade or tourism group. The main aim is to have fun, the other name for the day being “Vesilica” which means “Festival”, deriving from the word “vesel”= “happy”


In our valley, we have experienced the “Vaski dan” in the villages of Ratece, Podkoren and Dovje-Mojstrana. They are colourful times. The day in Ratece presents the most traditional activities, with presentations of music, dance, and local customs and crafts. It’s the first time I ever watched every part of the process of shearing a sheep right through to holding pair of socks knitted with it’s wool. All the participants wear full traditional costumes and in 28 degrees they have my admiration!









Dancing is a common theme at all Vaski dans. Podkoren presents a variety of music, with local groups ranging from Traditional to Rap. Generally the music is traditional folk music with dancing…which I have yet to learn but I am trying, and appear to be entertaining the locals in the process!


Of course, the other common factor is drink! Copious amounts of beer, schnapps and wine are consumed and the nights party on into the early hours.

If you happen to be in a Slovenian Village and you see adverts for a Vaski dan or Veselica, then go along and enjoy the warm, friendly atmosphere and party with the locals!!







Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. The next Blog will return to walking and focus on: Walks and Wildlife.

Fourteenth Post


The summer meadows have now been cut and the grass is hanging over the traditional hay -racks to dry, so summer is really here. The treks and hikes in this week’s edition can all be achieved from our door, with no need for transport. They vary from valley walks to high level treks and the scenery, flora and fauna reflect the diversity of the terrain….


Mojstrana is situated in the Vrata valley, so the most obvious and accessible walk is that up the length of the valley, about 16km each way if you want to do the whole walk! The majority is off road, along the banks of the river, with strategically placed benches and information boards. About half way is the Pericnik Waterfall, which has already been featured in previous Blogs and is well worth a detour up, or a walk to, in its own right. There are two falls, the lower and upper and you can walk behind either one and generally be rewarded with a refreshing shower and view into a cauldron of water, especially in the Spring with the snow melt.








Near the end of the valley is the Aljazev Dom, a beautiful example of a mountain dom and also a small chapel where services are held regularly in the summer. Here are many places to relax and gaze up at the awesome North face of Triglav.





Another 45 minutes walk takes you to the head of the valley, the snow line and amazing oasis of rock garden flowers and opportunity to see Ibex or Chamois.








On another day, you can extend the walk from the Dom, up into the higher mountains, up Stenar, at 2501 with a tremendous view back down the length of the Vrata valley and across to Triglav, or up to Luknja at 1758m, which is a natural watershed for our water, that flows eventually to the Danube, or down into the South side of the mountains and into the Adriatic. Of course, from Vrata you can ascend Triglav and there is a range of other high -level mountain tours from here.

On the other side of the road from us is the Karawanke mountain range and from the door there are easy and challenging routes. The best three are Kepa, 2139m, Dovska Baba, 1891m and Borovlje, 1476m. All have stunning scenery and views from the top on one side into Austria and the other, across to the Julian Alps and Triglav.


From the centre of Mojstrana, you can do a great “warm up walk” up Grancisce, 844m which provides a stunning view of the village and it orientates you to it’s location in the valley and in respect to the Alps. There are also walks up Sleme, 2077m and Jerebikovec, 1593m, both of which have lovely Planinas and history; with memorials to Partisans and reminders of the sadder days of war.

The local tourist board also marks 4 short, tourist walks around the village ensuring there is something for everyone!
The best guide-books for all the walks mentioned are:
-Cicerone Guide: “The Julian Alps of Slovenia” J. Carey and R.Clark
-“Walks and climbs around Dovje and Mojstrana A tourist Guide” Stanko Klinar


Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog will take a break from walking for a week and focus on:

Thirteenth Post


Being located on the edge of the Triglav National Park, there is a wealth of hiking from our door. There are walks for all levels, but being situated at the start of the Vrata Valley, which leads to the North face of Triglav, Slovenia’s highest peak at 2864m, suggests this is where I should start….



At 2864m, Triglav stands imposingly in the Julian Alps and all Slovenes endeavour to summit out and experience the ritualistic lashing of your back- side with 3 ropes! It would be rude to live here and not reach the summit of this revered mountain.


There are many routes up Triglav, all are secured and require us to use via ferrata harness. A helmet is particularly necessary in the limestone environment. There are also climbing routes up the North Face.

The best time of year to ascend is between late June and September. This year, there is still snow up to 2000m, so ice axe and crampons are still necessary. The best times of day to top-out are early morning to lunch - time or in the evening, in order to avoid the potentially lethal electric storms which can unleash in the afternoon. There are small commemorative plaques lining the secured path that act as timely reminders to respect the power of nature.

There are several mountain doms/kocas providing food, lodging and entertainment, which help break up the trek and plan your ascent times. Breakfast at 5am and an early departure from the Kredarica Dom was an unforgettable experience!
The scenery, views, flora and fauna are stunning and constantly changing as you climb. One route passes through the Triglav Lakes Valley, where you take in seven beautiful lakes each providing endless photo opportunities.



The best rock garden ever is near the summit of Triglav and we were privileged to see magestic Ibex and more timid Chamois.










The weather conditions can change quickly and on one summit, Mark was lucky enough to experience a brocken spectre on the ridge, making the experience even more unique.






Maybe one of the best memories and experiences from the trek however is the camaraderie and respect for the beauty of the area that you experience from the Slovenians you meet on the route and in the Doms. Triglav is more than a trek; it is really a pilgrimage.




Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog focus will be on
MORE HIKING AND TREKKING

Twelfth Post


“When sugar was hard to come by, there wasn’t a Slovene farm that didn’t keep bees alongside other domestic animals. Honey was the only sweetening agent and wax an indispensable material for making candles…”


Slovenia has a rich beekeeping tradition and the colourful beehives can be seen in many meadows and gardens. The Gray Bee, Carniolan Bee, has adapted to the alpine climate and is well known for its gentleness, hence the hives often being seen on peoples’ balconies. The home of Mihael Ambrozic is here in Mojstrana. He was one of the first exporters of this Gray bee and his property used to be home to thousands of bees, the walls of the house still have plaques depicting the export destinations.





The Bee Museum in Radovljica is excellent and presents the history of apiculture and current beekeeping in an interactive and interesting manner. Bees were kept in low wooden beehives and the museum has examples of old wooden logs that were used initially by farmers.
In the mid eighteenth century, a unique folk art of painting the beehive fronts with religious, funny or folklore tales began, and a range of such fronts can be seen at the museum and locally in Dovje.

Honey is an important food here in Slovenia. Slovene beekeepers collect 2000 tonnes of it annually. It can be seen for sale at many markets, and honey products are popular gifts for tourists to take home. The flower meadows and forests provide excellent foraging for the bees, which results in a variety of “pollen flavour” honeys: flower, fir and spruce, wild cherry, alongside propolis and Medica (honey liqueur)

Eleventh Post

For those of you out there who enjoy activity breaks and holidays, Slovenia is definitely not just a one- season destination. The winter sports are fantastic, but the mountains, rivers and lakes lend themselves to all year round sports and activities. We are happy to help you organise your activities when you are here, if for a one/two week stay or just a long weekend. Here is just a summary of some of the activities on offer…….



As you can see from the Ninth posting, our area is great for cycling. In Kranjska Gora there is also a downhill mountain bike course for adrenalin junkies. With the bikes, you are transported up the mountain by the summer chair lift, and then the rest is down to you!! You can race the "summer toboggan" down, which if you aren't up for the cycling, is a great blast down the mountain!!
A chairlift at each of Bled and Vogel also run in the summer, so high -level walking routes are accessible.

For walkers, there really is something for everyone, from low level flower filled pastures, to easy and more demanding high mountain summits. The mountain huts (doms or kocas) are now open until Autumn. They provide a welcome stop, where you can eat, drink and soak in the atmosphere and admire the views.

There are endless horse riding trails through the meadows and in the local area, with schools at Bled and Bohinj.
For water lovers, there are many lakes for swimming and now the fishing season is open, the rivers offer themselves to fishermen. The rafting on the Rivers Soca and Sava is popular and the rivers provide a variety of courses/levels to suit everyone.
If the sky is the limit for you, then locally in near Bled are opportunities to Parascend and Glide, where you can calmly look down upon the activities and life below in the mountains, rivers and lakes.













Hope you’ve enjoyed this edition. Next Blog focus will be on